Basic Knowledge of Apparel (Part 2) – Yunnan Garment Factory, Kunming Garment Factory, Fengming Apparel – Custom Workwear

Doorway At the placket, where the outer front panel overlaps the inner front panel, is the overlap flap (also called the overlapping flap). The outer front panel’s overlap flap typically features a button, while the inner front panel’s overlap flap usually has a buttonhole.

Dried noodles Inside the placket, there is a facing that is more than twice as wide as the placket itself, designed to reinforce the strength of the buttonholes and buttons. Because it is sewn on the inside of the front opening, it is called the facing.

Mitered edge : Areas of the garment that require stitching, such as the edges of garment components—e.g., the seam where the facing meets the placket, or the seam joining the pocket flap to the pocket lining.

Over the shoulder : Refers to a double-layered fabric at the shoulder of a particular style of blouse, also known as a double shoulder (commonly used in textile shirts).

Rebuttal head :An open turn-down collar, with the upper portion of its facing turned outward.

Serial cable The seam where the collar facing meets the lapel also serves as the reference line for determining the height of the notch. In some collars, the collar facing and the lapel are seamlessly joined, without a separate notch line—such as in a shawl collar.

Opening The angle formed by the collar facing and the lapel is called the notch. In a fall‑front collar, the notch refers to the width between the upper edge of the placket and the placket itself.

Sleeve blockbuster In a suit-style two-piece sleeve, the outer piece is larger and is called the “large sleeve panel,” while the inner piece is smaller and is called the “small sleeve panel.” When the seam is closed, the stitching is invisible from the outside.

Kefu : A loanword referring to a rectangular, double-layered straight piece of fabric sewn along the cuff edge.

Yuke : A loanword; in certain styles, the portion of the front and back panels that must be cut horizontally at the upper edge is called a yoke.

Cuff of the pants : The width of the pant hem, also known as the foot opening.

Mid-range :the middle of the pant leg

Front neckline :Outer line of the collar

Receive the lower lip line :Line where the collar meets the neckline

Bottom edge :Inside the lapel fold line is the collar base, also known as the collar stand.

Lapel The portion folded outward beyond the lapel fold line is called the lapel.

Sleeve cap : The curved portion at the upper end of the sleeve

Armhole : The armhole formed on the side after the front and back of the garment have been sewn together.

Draw smoothly :In structural design, the connection between a straight line and an arc, or between two arcs, The line segments should be straight and smoothly curved. ， No sharp edges or corners are allowed. In the industry, this is referred to as “drawing it smooth.” .

Crack-shaped: Also known as chain-shaped, this refers to a seam that lies unevenly, resembling a fried dough stick or a chain.

Huan: Also known as “huan kou,” it refers to the distortion of the raw fabric’s grain, such as a distorted collar edge or a misaligned armhole.

Shell: Also known as “shell‑up,” this refers to a mismatch between the face and lining—where the lining is too tight and the fabric is too loose, resulting in a poor fit between the inner and outer layers.

Wave Effect: Also known as wave pattern, this refers to a fabric finish in which, after ironing, a ruffled or wavy edge appears around the areas where the fabric has been lifted.

Eye socket: Refers to unevenness at the areas where the mouth and the string‑through opening meet.

Seated posture: The face of the seam’s edge has not been turned over sufficiently.

Exposed: Refers to situations where the welt or collar edge is exposed, or where the lining extends beyond the outer garment, etc.

Delamination: The inner and outer layers are not tightly bonded.

Sagging: Insufficient slope in the shoulder seam causes the front and back armholes to droop.

Aurora: A shiny sheen that appears when ironing, caused by using a too‑hard cloth underneath or by not covering the fabric with a damp cloth.

Water Marks: Water stains that appear when ironing comes into contact with water droplets or when a damp cloth is not evenly heated.

Layup: The opposite of a reverse curl, with good inner–outer balance.

Evenness inside and out: Refers to the fabric’s layered structure during processing.

Outward stretching: Also known as “pushing the grain,” this technique involves deliberately biasing the fabric’s weave outward during ironing to prevent shrinkage. For example, when pressing the front panel, the grain at the mid-waist area is gently stretched outward toward the seam line.

Smoothing: A manual technique employed to prevent fabric panels from developing slanted or distorted threads in certain areas.

Spit-out edge: Also known as the outer spit-out edge, the hanging noodles at the edge should not be visible; a spit-out edge refers to the exposure of the noodles.

Layer: Also known as “eating the seam” or “curving the seam,” this refers to the technique of sewing two pieces of fabric of differing lengths, where the longer piece is given a slight layering effect to create a natural gathering or pleating in the sewn assembly.

Deng: This refers to a sense of three-dimensionality, the opposite of being flat; for example, the back should be dengfang, not curved.

Side seam: Also known as a dart, such as the dart at the underarm curve, which is called a side seam dart. Its purpose is to draw the flat garment piece inward, conforming to the body’s contours.

Symmetry: Refers to the left and right sides of a garment being identical.

Bākāi: Also known as “bākuān,” this technique involves ironing to stretch and open up specific areas of the fabric. For example, opening up the chest area of a garment piece, the back, or the crotch seam on the lower portion of the back pant leg all fall under the category of bākāi.

Consolidate Also known as tucking, this technique involves slightly gathering or drawing in a specific area of the garment during sewing to accommodate the body’s shape—for example, the front and back armholes are often tacked to shorten them.